Is there anyone else who uses these controllers? We have had them in use now for this season and had been going through tubing like crazy for the Muriatic acid feeder. We had two major spills because the tubing inside the roller disintegrated. I kept contacting the seller and Rola Chem regarding this. Rola Chem never responded. Finally the supplier here got a response and they sent us new parts and new tubing.
Of course they only sent tubing for inside the actual rollers so I still am not sure what is the right type of tubing to be using from the jug of muriatic acid to the feeder? What they gave us originally is a food grade vinyl and I sure know that is not the right stuff after watching it fall apart. Even on the chlorine feed I find the food grade vinyl gets sticky quite quickly. Any thoughts? I'm pretty sure my supplier here doesn't have a clue.so I thought I'd ask the experts. You don't say what model pump you have.
Rolachem RC 25-7 operating manual. Auto PH and ORP controller - model RC 25-7 Posted by rearles on Feb 05, 2012. Need a user manual for my 'hurlcon automatic controller RC 25-6' (aka RolaChem). Major problem: Controller seems to keep on dosing regardless of current pH. Pool & Spa; Open Questions. How do I calibrate the ph on a Rolachem RC25-7 - Office Equipment & Supplies question. Need a user manual for my 'hurlcon automatic controller RC 25-6' (aka.
All their pumps: Do you dilute the acid 4:1 with water? You don't say what ratio you are using. To me, their manual isn't clear on the acid. On my model RC-252 it is more clearer. See: From the Manual of model RC-252: 2) The ROLA-CHEM pump is designed to develop a suction lift of 18 feet and to pump into a pressure line of up to 30 psi. Do not exceed these limits. The use of undiluted swimming pool grade, 15% maximum sodium hypochloride is recommended.
If Tri-cloro or Dicloro is used, do not exceed solution strengths of.4 lbs/gal for Tri-cloro or 1 lb/gal for Di-cloro. Norprene pump tubing (black) is included for 32% maximum hydrochloric acid feed or Tri-cloro feed. Sizing chart is based on Rola-Chem or equivalent pumps using 10.5+% Sodium Hypochlorite and Muriatic strength Hydrochloric Acid. When feeding acid diluted 9:1, the acid pump may be the same size as the chlorine (NaHOCl) pump.Where ‘SAME’ is specified, dilute acid 4:1 to 9:1. Sorry, I can't help you more because I don't use an acid pump.
Maybe you should dilute the acid atleast 6:1 with water; 6 parts water to 1 part acid. Well there in lays the problem I think, they told us to not dilute the acid at all. Which seemed strange to me at the time but I had never dealt with acid before so I wasn't sure. I had read in the instructins anywhere from a 4:1 ratio to 9:1 ratio.but when I asked the installer about this he said it was a waste of time. Just run straight acid. Guess that will teach me to listen to people and not do my own research.
The model of the pump is A-1600. Going to go dilute it down right now to a 4:1 Thanks so much. I didn't relize you had a vinyl pool.
Does your PH move around that much? Keep a record of your daily reading and how much acid mixture you use daily in a small notebook so you can keep track on what the pump is doing. Don't forget that the acid mixture is now 8% instead of 32%(what the acid is that I get). Keep track of your reading, acid mixture and chlorine daily so you can spot a problem early(since you are a business). Stop by again and let us know how things work out with the tubing.
We like a happy ending. My Ph doesn't really move around too much. I have not even gone through one 20 litre jug of Muriatic acid this season. (Undiluted) I have now diluted down the muriatic acid 4:1 and am watching it closely. I do keep a daily log so I can catch anything quickly.
Health department requires it as well I was just feeling the lines from the chlorine (12%) and they are starting to feel sticky too although never as bad as the MA lines. Guess I'll replace those too.
What type of tubing are using on your chlorine pump? Thanks again for your help. Polyethylene, low or high densities are the economical choice. I recommend black if used outdoors for the UV resistance. Clear/opaque is OK for indoor use where UV isn't a worry.
This tubing won't get sticky or disintegrate on you but will need to be replaced every two years or so.it will dry out. If you want to spend a bit more money for a highly resistant almost 'lifetime' tubing (no real reason to replace except clogs) go with Kynar/PVDF. Both can be obtained here: You'll just need to know your current tubing size, which should be stamped right on it. I use the stock Tygon (simi-clear) hose for the chlorine pump (12.5%chlorine). I've only replaced it once in about 11 years. In my pump manual it calls for using the neoprene (black) hose for acid.
If you ever watch the pump work, that small 8 inch or 12 inch hose (depending on pump size) that fits in the roller housing gets a work-out. If you use a different type of hose (not made by Rola-Chem) it may not flex enough and it will put alot of pressure on the motor to turn the rollers. I would stay with the stock hoses.
I lube the hose (bottom of hose where the rollers hit) twice a season, May and mid July. I also have a complete hose assembly as spare parts. In other threads in this forum, people talk about how the hoses don't last long; so at the end of this season I will discard the hose I am using and put on the spare hose. Over the winter I will order a new complete hose assembly and more lube. I couldn't find your pump manual (A-1600), but you must have one with the parts break-down to order new hoses. If you ever have trouble with the hoses you could add the chlorine or acid by hand until the new hose comes in.
It's not like a filter or pump problem. I always felt the hoses were the weak spot in the system; that's why I have a spare. I use the stock Tygon (simi-clear) hose for the chlorine pump (12.5%chlorine). I've only replaced it once in about 11 years. In my pump manual it calls for using the neoprene (black) hose for acid. If you ever watch the pump work, that small 8 inch or 12 inch hose (depending on pump size) that fits in the roller housing gets a work-out.
If you use a different type of hose (not made by Rola-Chem) it may not flex enough and it will put alot of pressure on the motor to turn the rollers. I would stay with the stock hoses. I lube the hose (bottom of hose where the rollers hit) twice a season, May and mid July. I also have a complete hose assembly as spare parts. In other threads in this forum, people talk about how the hoses don't last long; so at the end of this season I will discard the hose I am using and put on the spare hose. Over the winter I will order a new complete hose assembly and more lube. I couldn't find your pump manual (A-1600), but you must have one with the parts break-down to order new hoses.
If you ever have trouble with the hoses you could add the chlorine or acid by hand until the new hose comes in. It's not like a filter or pump problem. I always felt the hoses were the weak spot in the system; that's why I have a spare.I believe the OP was talking about the suction and discharge lines, not the feed tubes. I believe the OP was talking about the suction and discharge lines, not the feed tubes. The 1.5 or 2 inch lines from the pool to the pump/filter and return?
If she is talking about those lines, there is really a problem. I thought she was talking about the small tubes (3 attached together) that go from the acid or chlorine container thru the Rola-Chem pump and connect to the pool return line.
Well, I hope deena tells us which lines she is talking about.Not the pool piping. Not the tube in the head of the Rola-Chem. The line that goes to the chemical drum and the line that goes to the injection point.
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